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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Maple Leaf Café
***
out of four stars
297 E. Maple, Birmingham
248-723-1222
Fare: Creative, hearty, comfort-food breakfast and lunch dishes prepared from scratch with organic and natural ingredients. Good value. Vegan-vegetarian friendly.
Scene: Local flavor and retro touches create a friendly, off-beat atmosphere in a tiny place with an open kitchen just inside the door. Extremely casual.
Service: Friendly servers make you feel at home.
Price: Breakfast mostly $5.50-$8.95. Lunch $7.25-$9.95.
Hours: 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 8 a.m-3p.m. Sat-Sun
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Entertainment
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Dining Out
Maple Leaf Café is all about creativity
Chef cooks from scratch at 40-seat Birmingham restaurant
January 3, 2008
BY SYLVIA RECTOR
FREE PRESS RESTAURANT CRITIC
You don't usually expect the chef to greet you when you walk in for breakfast.
But at Maple Leaf Café, Jeorge Swanson often does, saying hello from the tiny open kitchen just inside the front door.
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His new breakfast and lunch place on Maple Road in downtown Birmingham is quite simple and small -- just 40 seats -- with an attitude that's more cool than quaint.
The oilcloth on the tables is retro green. The white walls are hung with enlargements of old Birmingham streetscapes and high school teams. And the clear resin countertop, which Swanson made, enshrines an array of collectibles, from Three Stooges and baseball cards to political buttons and Scrabble pieces.
But what really sets the Maple Leaf apart from dozens of other small cafés and diners is its fresh, interesting, from-scratch menu, created with almost all organic or natural ingredients.
The meats and poultry are naturally grown without hormones, Swanson says, while the eggs, dairy products, multigrain bread and as much produce as possible are organic.
The sweeteners for coffee are natural, and the beans used to brew it are fair-trade organic from the Rainforest Alliance. The sodas are all-natural, too; you won't find any Coke or Pepsi products here.
You will, however, find a varied collection of appealing dishes, served in Midwest-sized portions and loaded with flavor. The menu may be socially conscious, but that doesn't mean it's boring, bland or skimpy.
The breakfast lineup features a dozen creative entrees.
Among the sweet choices, my favorite was the wonderfully light and fluffy sweet-potato pancakes ($6.25), topped with a scoop of pecan-laced honey butter and served with a side of real whipped cream -- a dreamy combination.
If eggs are more your style, order the Apachee ($8.95), a three-egg scramble with Southwestern spices, peppers and Jack cheese and an unusual but memorable side of spicy rice cakes -- moist and creamy inside with a crisp, crumb-coated exterior.
The delicious crab cakes topped with poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce with a side of excellent house potatoes is the most expensive breakfast dish at $13.95 but worth the price.
The fluffy three-egg omelets -- served with toast, homemade jam and those tasty spuds -- are a good value at $8.95 with your choice of three fillings from a list of 20.
Lunch offerings range from sandwiches on thick, fresh bread to juicy half-pound-plus burgers and four hot entrees.
The aptly named Five-Star Meatloaf ($9.95) is sliced, grilled and kicked up with a sweet, peppery barbecue sauce. Fresh broccoli and smashed redskins, deliciously laced with green onions and cheddar, come on the side. For meatloaf fans, it doesn't get any better than this.
The Gold Medal Grilled Cheese ($7.50) will appeal to grownup tastes with its combination of provolone, Gruyere and feta cheeses, baby spinach, red onion, toasted almonds and lemon-oregano aioli on thick slices of grilled challah bread. It's one of the restaurant's several hearty, well-conceived vegetarian options.
And the extra-large, juicy burgers made with Certified Angus Beef come with generous toppings and some serious fries ($8.25-$9.25).
The Maple Leaf is Swanson's first restaurant but clearly not his first kitchen. His resume includes top jobs at Sweet Lorraine's and Lily's Seafood.
This little place won't impress you with expensive décor, but if you appreciate good food, you'll like its style.
Contact SYLVIA RECTOR at 313-222-5026 or srector@freepress.com.